The A900 sat on a pedestal,
right at the top of Technics' 'normal' audio range
with some audiophile features which would normally
cost well above £1,000. Launched in 1996, the
original retail price was just shy of £800, for your
money you got the SU-C800U Mk II pre amplifier and
the SE-A900S Mk II power amplifier, both combined
into an integrated amplifier combo which sat above
Technics' range of integrated amps and which posed
as a fully fledged pre-power combo.
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Our Technics A900 |
I bought one of these
'ex-demonstration' in 2000, developed almost a 'love
hate' opinion of it over time. Actually, it was my
first foray into the realm of higher end audio, for
that alone I feel that I should cut it some slack.
One thing I should mention here,
Technics have always gone in more for technology and
quirky features than a brand like Pioneer would - for
example, Technics started filling everything to the
brim with ICs back in the days when a more 'serious'
brand such as Pioneer wouldn't have touched those
components with a long stick because they weren't
judged to be anywhere near good enough for high
quality audio. This isn't a slight against Technics,
I've owned a lot of Technics gear over the
years and remember much of it fondly, I'm just
trying to give some context to the rest of this
article.
First impressions
The sound was a revelation at the
time, it definitely had power but the actual tonal
quality was quite soft, a definite contrast to the
bright, flat, almost 'heavy' characteristic sound
that I had always noticed in Technics gear before.
The whole thing was quite heavy and
weighed in at around 15kg, the vast majority of this
being the weight of the power amplifier.
The pre amplifier
This was slimline and very
lightweight, as it took power from the power
amplifier via a small umbilical cord and hence
didn't have the weight of its own supply. Much was
made at the time of the pre and power not actually
being truly separate, but was this really a handicap
or a shrewd cost saving idea?
Power supplies are probably the most
costly part of audio gear. They're heavy, in the
case of power amplifiers they require some large
components, for sensitive low level circuitry they
need to be designed for good regulation and very low
levels of noise. Technics' famed AVBO (Advanced
Virtual Battery Operation) circuit uses a dedicated
circuit to smooth the output from a second
transformer in the amplifier case and send the
smoothed voltage to the low level circuits inside
the pre amp. By keeping the power supplies all in
one place and away from the signal circuits it's not
only cheaper but also helps eliminate any noise
problems at the signal end. So quality and build are
sometimes a two edged sword, in this case a small
cost saving works well for the design.
Signal lines were quite pure,
running through the CD input there was little more
than a relay, a couple of capacitors and an op-amp.
There was a tone defeat switch but this only
switched out the filter components themselves, not
the actual amplifier section.
As with most higher end audio gear
the tone controls were based at the far ends of the
audio spectrum (50Hz and 20kHz). This actually works
very well, you could add a lot of weight to the low
end of the bass without making the sound overly
murky; to me, the region below 100Hz is the 'sweet
spot' for bass, this is where many loudspeakers
begin to run out of puff and need it most.
Everything else was pretty
unremarkable. All switching except for CD was done
via Toshiba branded IC switches, there was a
reasonably good phono stage, a tone defeat switch
and a remote control.
Finally, it had two pre-outs, handy
to connect a second power amplifier to.
The power amplifier
The A900S power amplifier was the
most interesting part of the combo. Quoted power was
somewhere around 85 watts into 8 ohms, 120 watts
into 4 ohms; I did feel that this was a bit
optimistic at times, the soundstage would begin to
harden before the meters were peaking past the 10
watt mark, although it would drive them all the way
across without audible distortion if you pushed it
hard enough.
Inside was a reasonably sized single
power supply feeding both channels via a pair of
10,000µF capacitors of Technics' own
design. Down the middle was a large heatsink,
attached to that a pair of MOSFET IC power modules.
There were two sets of loudspeaker sockets, both
being relay switched via the front panel.
The most striking thing about the
amplifier were those huge retro style VU meters,
these were heavily damped and would gently dance
around in a fluid motion...watching these at night
with the lamps switched on was mesmerising.
Upgrade
After a while I noticed the amp
developing an annoying problem, depending on the
volume the left channel would drive the power meters
a bar further than the right channel. Barely audible
but it would eventually drive me crazy. This turned
out to be the volume control and set the upgrade bug
going.
The A900 was never going to be a
contender for a high end amplifier even if it was
rebuilt - the design limitations rooted it firmly at
the top of the mass market 'mid-fi' audio market and
it would have been difficult to improve these by
much margin. It had power, not a great deal by high
end standards but with the room and speakers I used
it in it had enough, the actual tonal quality and
transparency were enough to make me think it
deserved upgrading somewhat.
Controls
The first step on the upgrade route
was the volume control. This is something which
bothers me with a lot of modern equipment, the
volume controls are too sensitive. Grab a really
highly powered piece of high end vintage gear and
the volume control is still very gentle, you can use
the full range of the control. With most modern
equipment by the time it reaches 9 o clock the sound
is already pushing the meters halfway on their
scales. For some unknown reason, the original
control behaved more like a linear type, even though
it was labelled as a log part - I changed it for a
higher quality logarithmic one better suited to
audio.
The volume control is remote
controlled so this limits the amount of upgrades
available. Ideally I would have fitted a stepped
attenuator but this would have meant losing the
remote control; I never even used the remote but
keeping everything original as far as possible was
important. The original seemed fairly good quality
but was unbranded and the mismatched channels
problem speaks for itself. In the end I fitted an
Alps Blue Velvet, for the price they're a very good
upgrade and luckily they're also sold as a motorized
version for remote control.
The difference in size shows the
quality difference between the Alps and original
part, however there's enough space in there albeit
with some cutting, the original PCB won't fit the
new part but that's okay - it can be hard wired and
I was going to ditch the original connector sockets
in favour of direct soldered connections anyway
(direct soldered connections are always better for
low level audio).
The volume shaft needed to be
modified, most higher end equipment uses 6mm round
shafts with the control knobs fixed on with grub
screws; however, the knobs here are fitted to D
shafts and I wanted to keep things as original as
possible. A flat to accept the knob is carefully
ground into the shaft, it takes care to make sure
everything is kept square while this is done and not
to remove too much material.
Left: New Alps volume control
alongside original. Centre: Shaft modified
to take original D shaft knob. Right: New
control after test fit - connectors haven't
been soldered yet, Click images for larger
version |
Connectors
Originally, as with most mainstream
equipment, these were built with low grade
tin/nickel input sockets. These sockets are ok on
normal cheap plugs but once you start using higher
grade cables with better plugs you encounter
problems where they don't always fit well and also
the sockets break very easily under the weight of
better plugs and cables.
You can buy sockets already mounted
on a chassis to solder straight into your PCB. These
are fine - however, just to be difficult Technics
use a slightly different socket pitch which is
difficult to match.
The sockets were custom made -
chassis phono sockets fitted to a 1.2mm aluminium
chassis, the holes for them punched for neatness and
then wet sanded to remove any burrs which could cut
through the insulation and cause ground loops.
Because of the design of the case,
it was difficult getting everything lined up and
fitted together, I ended up locating them with dabs
of solder and then fixing everything together after
test fitting.
The custom made input
sockets, during assembly (L) and after
fitting (centre and R). Connecting wires are
angled to fit original holes in PCB. Thick
blue interconnects are new pre-out jumpers
between pre-amp and amp. Click images for
larger version.. |
Op-amps
Op-amps are small ICs which replaced
transistors in almost all audio gear after about
1980. These look just like a generic IC, the selling
point of these was that they could make a complete
audio circuit with just a power supply and a handful
of small components.
The Technics pre amp used two
op-amps, one for the phono stage and one for the
tone circuits. These amps have a surprising
influence on the quality of audio you hear, just as
the quality of your amplifier or speakers does.
We're not talking a 'night and day' difference but
definitely a change in character and tonality if you
listen.
Large companies have to work to
tight price points. Using a marginally better part
which costs $0.20 more ends up a great deal if you
build 100,000 units with that component, the company
bean counters would need to offset this extra cost
against perhaps thousands of other factors to keep
to their profit margin.
Hence your very expensive £800
amplifier will often contain some very cheap,
outdated parts.
The amp used in the tone circuits
of the pre-amp was a 4580DD, a warmed over version
of the old 4558 which was ubiquitous in audio
equipment from around 1980 - the DD means that it's
a slightly more expensive lower noise version than
you'd get in a base model £120 amplifier. The phono
stage used a AN6558 because the noise and slew specs
of the lower chips just weren't good enough for the
sensitive phono input - this is a decent components
but there are still better alternatives.
After a lot of listening I replaced
the tone amp with an NE5532, not the most expensive
but seemed to work well. The phono stage got a more
expensive low noise OPA2604, the improvement in
sound quality this makes over the original 6558 was
impressive, on a par with some dedicated phono
stages.